PARMIGIANO REGGIANO CHEESE

Parmigiano-Reggiano is a part skim milk, grain-style cheese produced from the milk of cows fed on fodder of mixed grasses or alfalfa. To make the cheese, milk from both the evening and morning milking is used and is left to settle before being partially skimmed. During cheese production, the use of anti-fermentation substances is not allowed.
Each wheel is cylindrical in shape, 18-24 cm high with a diameter of 35-45 cm and may weigh as much as 24 to 40 Kg.
The traditional production zone of Parmigiano-Reggiano is the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantua (right of the Po River) and Bologna (left of the Reno River). There is a consortium that oversees the production of the cheese, created in 1954 from the former Consorzio Volontario Interprovinciale formed in 1934 and it is headquartered in Reggio Emilia.

Brief History

Martial (64-98 AD) tells us that, in his day, Parmigiano-Reggiano was transported from the Taro River Valley in the Parma Apennines to La Spezia to be exported.
Thanks to the Benedictine monks, the production of this cheese spread from the area around the Taro River until it reached the towns and villages along the Enza River that have been considered historically the original area in which it was made.
A number of sources offer testimony regarding Parmigiano-Reggiano, starting in the 13th century, and those that mention it include Fr. Salimbene de Adam, Bartolomeo Sacchi (known as Platina) and Leandro Alberti of Bologna.
A curious aspect is the use of this cheese for medicinal purposes in early times. According to documents dating from 1568, it would seem that Pope Paul IV, who suffered from respiratory ailments, was treated with large doses of Parmesan cheese, while his successor's cook called it "... the best of all cheeses".
Even the great Giorgio Vasari, speaking of the wedding between Francesco de' Medici and Giovanna of Austria, describes column bases and capitals of Parmesan cheese in the banquet areas.
The fame of the cheese was also undoubtedly given a boost by Boccaccio's mention of it on the eighth day in the third book of his Decameron (1300). The fantastic description of the Land of Plenty by Maso del Saggio to Calandrino evokes a world of delectable gluttony: "... and there was a mountain of grated Parmesan, on top of which were people who did nothing but make macaroni and ravioli and cook them in capon broth and then they tossed them down below where those who grabbed the most, ate the most." 
During the reign of Philip of Bourbon, husband of the eldest daughter of Louis XV, travel between France and Italy was common and often accompanied by vast quantities of Parmigiano-Reggiano. The great Molire, ill and near death, virtually lived on this cheese which was held by the cultural and political elite to be a valuable food, rich in important nutritional substances.
Over the centuries, Italian, English, French and German authors have lavished praise on Parmigiano-Reggiano, but despite this, the cheese has also passed through some periods of crisis, especially in the early 1820s, when a number of rival products began to compete.

How it is Made

However, the painstaking, never-changing traditional methods used over the centuries to make this cheese have guaranteed its supremacy. As the Parmigiano-Reggiano Consortium states: "Let's say that it is 'unique' in the strictest sense of the word. In fact, there is no other cheese that could be said to be its equal, even if there are others which try to imitate it, the only result being to emphasize the insuperable difference between them. The 'quality' of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is the result of a number of factors, all unduplicatable: milk from the designated zone, artisan production methods that have remained the same for seven centuries, natural aging and strict control. The result is superlative flavor and nutritional energy, intrinsic 'genuineness'.
Another factor that makes Parmigiano- Reggiano unique, because if it were not genuine, it would not be Parmigiano-Reggiano."
As has already been explained, the production of traditional Parmigiano- Reggiano takes place in a limited area in the Emilia region and is seasonal, starting on April 1st and going to November 11th.
Sixteen liters of selected milk is required to make 1 Kg of Parmigiano- Reggiano.
After the fresh milk has been brought to a temperature of 33¡C, veal whey and rennet are added. The mixture takes 10-15 minutes to coagulate and, before proceeding to be cooked at 45¡C, the curd is broken up. While continuing to stir the curd, the temperature continues to be raised until it reaches 55¡C. Following a 30 min. rest, the mixture is removed using a piece of cheesecloth and set into the "fascere" (round wooden forms) for a first pressing. A few hours later, the cloth is removed and the stencils that mark the logo and date on the crust are inserted.
Over the next 25-30 days, the cheese is placed in special brine baths. Then the aging process (30-90 days) begins, during which the wheels, placed in large storerooms, are constantly brushed and turned.

Aging

The cheeses are aged for at least one year and may continue up to three. Parmigiano-Reggiano is considered "young" when it was produced during the current or just-concluded year, "aged" when it is between 18 and 24 months and "very aged" when at least 2 summers have passed (24 to 36 months).
The first "Voluntary Consortium of Reggiano Producers" was founded in 1927, but it was not until 1951 that a law designed to protect this cheese was drawn up and passed. In Stresa, during the International Conference, nine countries established the exclusive names of 22 cheeses, among them Parmigiano-Reggiano, to be used only by producers in designated areas.
Parmigiano-Reggiano has also been awarded the DOP (protected origin) designation.

Il Parmigiano Reggiano in the kitchen

Its subtle, delicate flavor make this cheese a fundamental ingredient in many Italian dishes and its easy digestibility and nutritional value render it particularly suitable for children and athletes.
In cooking, Parmigiano-Reggiano is always used grated to accompany and add flavor to pasta, fish, meat and vegetable dishes. Only in recent years has it begun to appear as a regular part of aperitif and cheese courses: the wedges of cheese chipped off using the characteristic almond-shaped parmesan cheese knife bring out the aroma of wine and mute the effects of drinks with higher alcohol content.

for more information, visit the web site of the Parmigiano-Reggiano Consortium:www.parmigiano-reggiano.it

PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA - PARMA HAM

Parma Ham is made from the leg of a "mature pig", mature referring to the characteristics of the meat which must have a low water content to limit the amount of salt required.
Sweetness is not the only characteristic that sets this cured meat apart: the rosy color of its lean meat, its low cholesterol content and high percentage of unsaturated fatty acids are some of the main features provided by its genetic structure and the feeding of the pig from which the Parma Ham is made. The presence of natural anti-oxidizing agents, such as Vitamin F, protect its fat from the risk of turning rancid.
A whole Parma Ham is easily recognizable by its weight (more than nine kilograms), the absence of the pig's foot at the end of the leg and the presence of the official seal of the producer's Consortium branded onto the smooth outer skin following official inspection.
The well-defined area of production includes the mid- and upper-Val d'Enza, mid- and upper-Val Parma, the Val Bardea, the Val Parmossa and the mid-Val Baganza.

Brief History

The term "prosciutto" derives from the Latin "prae exuctus" or "prosciugato", dried out. Following the destruction of the Cervia saltworks (14th century), Parma began using salt from the wells in the thermal baths of nearby Salsomaggiore. Rich in sodium, bromine, sulphur and nitrites, this salt easily impeded the development of bacteria, leading farmers to preserve all types of meat, from thin slices to shoulder and leg cuts.
The Gauls and Romans were already familiar with the art of salting and preserving cured meats and soon prosciutto became known. Testimony regarding the production of prosciutto appears in the writings of Cato in the second century BC. It is interesting to note that following the demise of the Longobard Reign (774 AD), the Magister porcarium enjoyed a social position equal to that of a master craftsman, and much higher than that of a master shepherd!
Starting in the year 1000, Parma and its countryside began to change physical appearance. The number of forests were reduced and the land dedicated to cultivating grain increased. Bread consumption began to replace that of meat, penalized by the high taxes imposed on those who raised livestock. It was in this period that prosciutto became a prized foodstuff.
Between the 1200 and 1300s, the Corporation of Butchers which was also involved in the sale of pork meat, was formed in Parma. In 1459, the "Lardaroli", those who butchered pigs and salted their meat, officially split off from the Corporation. 
However, it is not until the 1500s that we have one of the first mentions of Parma Ham in a poem by Pomponio Torelli. In it, he mentions the area in which it is produced (Montechiarugolo, town on the banks of the Enza River), how it is salted and aged. A number of laws prohibiting the free circulation of pigs in the city also date from the 1500s, indication that the raising of pigs, including for domestic and private uses, was quite common in the province. As late as 1803 we have traces of warnings to the citizenry that "circulation" of pigs is prohibited in the city!
Prosciutto continued its rise to the tables of nobility and aristocrats, until it appeared at Palazzo Farnese in Rome on the occasion of the visit of Queen Christine of Sweden to Pope Alexander VII. Famous chefs from the most important Italian courts set about curing the prosciutto with large amounts of spices and wine, completely or in part hiding its characteristic flavor. In the original areas of production, however, expert hands continued to prepare it with the same knowledge and skill passed down over the centuries

PREPARATION AND AGING Preparation and Aging

The pig used to produce a Parma Ham is raised on high-quality vegetable feed including corn, barley, bran and often milk whey. The technique used in its production is based on just three elements: salt, environmental conditions and aging time.
Parma Ham is aged in specialized plants in the hills around Parma and undergoes continuous checks to assure perfect aging. The aging period ranges from a minimum of twelve months to eighteen months or more for a "choice prosciutto". In hams that have been aged for long periods, small white specks may be visible on the slices caused by the separating out of amino acids, the result of proteolysis.
Parma Ham is "raw", i.e., it has not been cooked using heat, thus offering the consumer the full benefit of its nutritional qualities with a low caloric content. In fact, the fat content of the meat itself is less than 5%. In addition, its low salt content makes it an ideal food for the elderly or those with high blood pressure.

Serving Suggestion

The best way to discover all the sweetness and flavor of Parma Ham is to enjoy it with a good slice of not-overly-salted homemade bread. It may also be paired, lightly cooked, with cheese and truffles as seen in recipes of recent creation.
The ideal wines for accompanying this meat must be delicate, for example still or sparkling dry white wines or a light Lambrusco.

for more information, visit the web site of the Parma Ham Consortium: www.prosciuttodiparma.it

CULATELLO

Among the traditional products of the Parma plain, the most elegant is undoubtedly culatello, a prime-cut of Parma ham.
With its characteristic pear shape, an aged culatello weighs approximately 3-1/2 kg and is made from the lean, upper part of the leg of a pig at least 12 months old (and weighing 200-250 kg), raised in the towns of Zibello, Sissa, Polesine Parmense, Busseto, Soragna, Roccabianca, San Secondo, Fontanellato, Trecasali and Colorno.
Culatello is the marvelous fruit of the resourcefulness of the farmers of the Parma lowlands who, not being able to count on the temperate air currents from the Tyrrhenian Sea used to cure Parma ham, case the rear part of the leg in order to reduce to a minimum the presence of fat, while eliminating the bone and skin.
Raised on an almost exclusively liquid diet during the first months of life, these pigs only eat feed composed of bran, acorns and sorghum, mixed with the whey that is the by-product of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Brief History

Culatello has been present on the tables of discerning noblemen and gourmands since 1322. In fact, in that year, it was offered to guests at the wedding feast of Giovanna of Sanvitale and Count Andrea Rossi.
One of the most esteemed cured meats, its name and image appear in numerous official historical documents, including the "Calmiero", a detailed price list of products derived from the pig. From this list we learn that the cost of a "libbra" (Roman unit of measure equal to 327 gr.) of boneless culatello in 1735 was 19 cents, while in 1805, the same source informs us, a pound of culatello cost 48 cents.
It has had many admirers over the centuries. The Marquises Pallavicino of Busseto and Rossi of San Secondo offered them as gifts to their rich and powerful friends, such as Galeazzo Sforza, the lord of Milan. More recently, the poet Gabriele D'Annunzio claims that the pieces of this delicacy received from his friend Renato Brozzi helped his creative - and perhaps even  amatory - art. The poet wrote: "Thank you for that salty, red porky chunk which, without a hint of embarrassment, you call 'culatello'."

How it is Made

The result of age-old processing techniques, culatello is made from the rear internal crural muscle of the pig. After leaving it to rest and to have the blood drain off for 24 hours (heat method used to the west of the Taro River) or for 7-8 days (cold method used to the east of the Taro), the culatello is massaged, dressed with ground pepper and salted just enough to not alter the natural mildness of this cured meat. It is then surface-rinsed with white or red wine and tied with fine string to make the meat more compact. After having rested for 20-24 hours, it is cased in pig bladder, taking care to eliminate any air bubbles, and then tied with its characteristic exterior lacing.

Aging

The aging process may be divided into two periods. The first, which lasts approximately 2-3 months, serves to dry the meat. During this phase, the culatello is hung from the wooden rafters in the upstairs rooms of farm houses so that the heat from the stoves in the floors below filters up through the brick flooring without hitting the meat directly. It is during this period that, strolling through the Parma lowlands, glimpses of rows of culatello can be seen hanging like ceiling lamps in old farm houses. Crisp, sunny autumn days (the production period runs from February to November) dry the meat, although care must be taken not to subject it directly to air currents.
The second aging period commences with the scrubbing of the white surface that has formed on the culatello and continues with the transfer of the precious cured meat into the farm's wine cellar where it is hung from the rafters another 12 to 16 months, depending on it size. Humidity in the cellar must be kept around 70/80¡ and the ideal cellar is one with earth or brick flooring and walls in plaster or quicklime.
Considering that the weight of an aged culatello may be 40 to 50% less than that of the fresh meat, the average weight of each cased piece cannot be less than 3 kg.

Serving Suggestions

To enjoy culatello at its best, it is crucial to determine if it was aged in optimal or less-than-perfect conditions. In the first case, all that is required is to remove the string and casing and trim away approximately a half centimeter of the outside. In the second case (when there are areas that are excessively hard), before trimming, the culatello must be wrapped in a tea towel moistened with water and wine.  It is because of the special care taken by farmers in the preparation of this cured meat and the particular conditions under which the pigs are raised, that culatello today is very rare and expensive. For this reason, we suggest slicing it from the center so that the full flavor and aroma of an entire slice may be enjoyed. Soft yet not flabby, red and transparent as a precious ruby, each slice has a small star of white fat at is center. In the traditional "osterie" [taverns] in the Parma plain, culatello is served with a ceremonious calm, accompanied by curls of fresh butter and homemade bread and a good, sparkling red wine such as Fortana or Lambrusco.

for more information, visit the web site of the "Strada del Culatello": www.stradadelculatellodizibello.it